Shore Fishing at Bonnavista (Roumasalla) in Sri Lanka

It has been a while since I last visited the Playground - the exciting fishing site I discovered mid of last year somewhere beside the protected diverse reef area of Bonnavista or Roumasalla, Galle City in Sri Lanka. The adventure I experienced there was in fact the subject of the first post, in two parts, of this blog entitled “Shore Fishing Under the Rain” Part 1 and Part 2. While I have returned to the Playground several times after that discovery, the prevailing monsoon period, that actually lasted until mid of December 2009, created huge and unforgiving waves that made the fishing site quite unsafe. I also posted one of the unproductive fishing trips under “Natures Way of Maintaining the Balance”.

Since it is already fishing season in the Southwestern Sri Lanka, the first thing I wanted to do since I returned from my short Christmas Holiday in the Philippines was to revisit the Playground. Last week, we had the opportunity to do it so I asked Rene, a new friend who prepared the “Kinilaw na Tanigue” I recently posted, who incidentally, also has a fascination with sport fishing and who loves fish a lot, to join me in the adventure. The plan was to leave our place early so that before the morning breaks, we are already wetting our lines. Fish are usually eating during that period so it is considered among the best times to fish. We intend to only fish until before noon, probably up to 10 am, to avoid the intense heat of the sun.

We arrived in the area quite early. It was still dark when we left our vehicle to hike down the scrub towards the shoreline. As always, the view of the place that appeared before us was magnificent. It is an untainted beauty of nature in its innate form. The place is really a natural refuge for the outdoorsman.

We immediately positioned ourselves in the Playground. We prepared our gears and tackles. We don’t want to waste any time as the crystal blue sea was serenely inviting. In a short time, Rene and our local friends were already casting shelled shrimp-baited hooks. I decided to try my luck popping and casting shallow diving lures.

Casting lures did not make any progress. I had no strike even after trying different colors and types of artificial baits. I decided to join Rene and our driver and focused my attention to the reef fishes using chunks of shrimps and squid. Whilst we have been feeling a lot of bites and actually seeing school of fish swimming around in front of us, we were unable to hook any fish. As suggested by Rene, we decided to use smaller hooks and it paid off. Rene was so delighted to have the first catch of the day - a tasty spinefoot or “samaral” or “kitong” as known in the Southern Philippines. Quite luckily, he also had the second catch of a colorful wrasse or “mameng”.

Our driver also managed to land one “kitong” that he hooked in the body and not in the mouth. :-) Only confirming there were lots of fish playing around. After more than an hour these were our modest catch but I still yet to get my first fish.

I persisted. Getting skunked is not part of the plan. Whilst we were having a great time and enjoying every moment even when the fish were seemingly outsmarting us and consistently able to steal the shrimp and squid baits without getting hooked, I am determined to catch fish. Badly! Finally, my prayers were answered, I landed my first catch…….bigger than the previous catch of Rene and our driver. The same “kitong” fish who’s probably among the school of fish feasting on our baits. :-)

And then it was catching time. I managed to catch several more fishes. Even a sharp toothed “papakol” or trigger fish was landed. The great time just became a grand time. And we were overjoyed and extremely satisfied. :-)

Just before we call it a day by around 10 am, Rene got a massive full from his rod. The hook and line easily gave to the fish but Rene saw the big fish just before it swam back to the rock. As Rene changes his terminal tackle, I immediately casted to where the fish was last seen and waited for a while. It did not take long before I hooked the same huge fish. It was very heavy, colored brown which I initially thought was a grouper of about 3-4 kilos. But my hook, too, was easily cut off. Yes, it was the hook that was cut by what seem to be a steel toothed fish. I was dumbfounded to see the remnants of my hook. Definitely it’s not a grouper.

I changed tackle and attached a steel line with a swivel in the end. In the swivel I attached a 1/0 hook and baited a large piece of squid. I immediately casted it to the same spot. The same stubborn brown fish took my offerings. I was happy and said to myself you are mine now. The fish was so massive, not really a ferocious fighter but very heavy. I was able to bring it up the surface to finally see it. It was a fierce looking not so handsome fish with a square jaw….a burrfish, probably birdbeak. It is known as the type of “butete” that can be eaten. In Samar where Rene lives, it is called “Tagutungan” and Rene swears it is one delicious fish.

But I was trying hard to land the fish my line snapped and the fish was again free in the water. I checked my terminal tackle to find out that my 1/0 hook was cut. The fish’s teeth are probably sharper than my long nose. As I changed my terminal tackle again, Rene casted his line with relatively smaller hook on a mono leader. The hungry fish again bit the offering and was at the end of Rene’s line.

Rene took his time; slowly he dragged the then already exhausted fish close to the shoreline. Rene’s intention was to tire the fish and carefully lift it by hand from the water. How I wish I have gaff that very moment. Our driver eagerly helped Rene. We saw the fish almost gasping for air, trying to catch his last breath, as it was kept afloat the surface. Everyone was already excited, but our driver made a terrible mistake, instead of reaching out to the fish to grab and lift it, he pulled the line which once again was broken by the sharp teeth of the burrfish. And the fish slowly swam back to freedom.

We again tried casting several times in the hope of hooking the fish once more, but it was nowhere to be found. Probably after that near-death encounter it had, it decided to keep away from our offerings. Even the school of spinefoot fishes or “kitong” was gone. Since it was already past 10 in the morning and the heat of the sun was starting to hit us, we decided to call it a day. With several tasty spinefoot fish or “samaral” or “kitong” in the bag, we already had a fine catch.

Before leaving the place we decided to eat our lunch first. The struggle with the burrfish likewise exhausted us somehow and we needed to load some food to regain our strength. What could be better than with steamed jasmine rice and a rich “humba” which I cooked the night before? And we ate whilst enjoying the scenic view of the Playground.

On the way to our vehicle, we once again enjoy the breathtaking view of the shoreline from the top. Can be seen from our vantage point was the Playground from the other side of the shore. It is really a gorgeous place.

As we continued our trek towards our vehicle, we were already planning our return. The season will end by mid of April and we need to comeback whenever we have time. We only have 2 months to enjoy the Playground until the season ends and massive waves pound the place.

For all I know, the school of “kitong” or spinefoot and probably the burrfish will also be waiting for us for the fun to continue. c“,)

Bihongke or Sotanghon Soup (Bean Thread or Glass Noodle Soup)

If the term “bihongke” does not ring a bell to you, chances are you are not from the Southern Tagalog Region of the Philippines. There, most especially in the beautiful province of Batangas, “bihongke” refers to the soothing Filipino noodle dish, popularly called “sotanghon soup” elsewhere in the country. I do not have an idea, yet, how the funny name came about considering that the soupy dish uses “sotanghon” noodles and not “bihon” (thin rice noodle) which is usually cooked as “Pancit Bihon”, an all-time favorite stir-fried/sautéed dry (“guisado”) noodle dish among Filipinos.

As a backgrounder, “sotanghon” is the Filipino term for the bean thread noodles, sometimes referred to as cellophane noodles or glass noodles, made from mung beans or “mungo”. It is a thin, transparent, smooth and slick type of noodles popular in the Philippines as well as in other Asian countries. Aside from cooking it into a wonderful soup, it can be sautéed with crab and spices like in my "Alimasag Con Sotanghon" post and of course, as “pancit” on its own, or in combination with “miki” or egg noodles like in my “Sotanghon–Miki Guisado” post. While “sotanghon” is a noodle, don’t be surprised to find them inside most Asian spring rolls.

“Sotanghon” soup is my ultimate comfort food among noodle dishes. The soup is good for breakfast, snack or “merienda” and perfect during midnight snack when you have to stay or work really late. During rainy days or even when the weather is just cool and windy, it tastes and satisfies even better. Truly among the best food to take if you want to feel good.

For me, the key ingredients for the dish are good quality “sotanghon”, tasty mushroom (shiitake/Chinese black mushroom or wood ear), flavorful chicken and lots of garlic. The addition of some vegetables will further enhance the taste of the broth and thus will complete the dish.

To prepare, we need 1 pack of “sotanghon” noodles (250 grams), soaked in water until slightly soft, cut to manageable lengths and then drained and about a cup of dried wood ear mushroom (shiitake is much better), soaked in water until rehydrated, then roughly chopped and drained.

We also need about half of a medium-sized chicken, about 500 grams, washed and drained then boiled in water until just tender. The meat will then be flaked to small pieces discarding the bones. The broth should be strained and set aside.

The rest of the ingredients are as follows: 2 tbsp vegetable oil, 1 head of garlic, peeled and minced, 2 pcs onions, peeled and chopped, 1 pc carrot, peeled and julienned, 3 tbsp “patis” or fish sauce, 1 tsp salt or to taste, 1 tsp ground pepper, 3 tbsp minced green onions, 2 tbsp “atsuete” or annatto seeds (optional) and about 2 liters chicken broth. If the broth used in boiling the chicken is not enough, just add some chicken stock to complete the required quantity. The noodles will suck up huge quantity of broth so we need to have plenty to attain a really soupy dish.

In a large deep pan (“kawali”) or wok, on medium flame, heat the oil and fry garlic until aromatic, add the onion and continue frying until onion is translucent. Add the carrots and continue sautéing. Add the fish sauce and quickly stir fry to bring out the fragrant. Immediately after, add the wood ear mushroom followed by the chicken flakes and continue cooking. At this point, season it with salt and lots of ground pepper.

Then pour the broth slowly. Let it boil on high heat then continue simmering on low heat. Taste the broth and adjust the seasonings. I usually adjust the taste by adding a little more “patis” and ground pepper. Add the noodles and cook for about 3 minutes more, until the noodle is al dente.

You can use “atsuete” or annatto seeds to impart color to the soup. I choose not to use mine anymore as the color contrast of carrots and mushroom already made the soup appealing. (Washing an “atsuete” oil laden dishes is not very fun. :-) ) Avoid over-cooking the dish as the noodle will become soggy.

Transfer in a deep bowl, sprinkle the green onions on top and serve piping hot. I love the soup more if accompanied with “hot pandesal” (popular Filipino bread roll) but since we don’t have it here in Sri Lanka, I have to satisfy myself with toasted sliced bread. :)

You can serve it with a mixture of “calamansi” or lemon juice, fish sauce and some more green onion on the side. We added some toasted garlic on top which makes the soup a real hit. Enjoy! c“,)

Ginisang Bagoong Alamang (Sauteed Shrimp Paste)

The first thing that will flash in the mind of a typical Filipino upon seeing a freshly picked matured greenish yellow mango is “Bagoong Alamang”. It’s but natural. The combination of the still sour but slightly sweet crunchy mango which is called “manibalang” in Filipino and the salty earthy “Bagoong Alamang” is just so good………..perfect if you wish. While it may seem an awkward pair at a glance, the combined taste it creates when eaten together is something extra ordinary. It has the ability to rejuvenate appetites and cravings. It can even make one to salivate by the mere sight of it being eaten or even by just thinking about it. :-)

“Bagoong Alamang” refers to Filipino shrimp paste made from minute shrimp or krill called “alamang”. As I mentioned above, it is commonly eaten as a topping on crunchy green mangoes or used as an important cooking ingredient in Filipino cuisine. “Bagoong Alamang” is essentially a shrimp and salt mixture left to marinate and ferment for several days, under specific conditions, until the salty and earthy flavor develops.

Unlike in other Southeast Asian countries as well as in Southern China though, where the shrimp are fermented beyond recognition or ground to a really smooth consistency, the tiny shrimp in the Filipino “bagoong alamang” are still evident and identifiable. The sauce itself although commonly referred to as paste, is actually coarse and has a chunky consistency.

Whilst it can be used or eaten in its fresh form or right after the fermentation, like “bagoong na isda” or fish paste which I posted earlier, shrimp paste is usually sautéed with select spices and vegetables such as garlic, ginger, onion, tomatoes, chili and some other condiments to make it more aromatic, appealing and ready to use as dip, sauce and even ingredient for other food preparations. Its flavor can range from salty to sweet and spicy and its usage depends on the type of food it will go with.

For this “Ginisang Bagoong Alamang” preparation, I prefer the salty type as I intend to use it as side dish for a main meal of rice. For me, it could pretty complements such dishes as fried or grilled fish, grilled meat, steamed, boiled or grilled vegetables and of course, chopped up fresh mango, tomatoes and onion. :)

For about 3/4 cup of shrimp paste, the other few ingredients needed are 2 tbsp vegetable oil, about 5 pcs plum tomatoes, chopped, 1 large onion minced, 6 gloves garlic, peeled and minced, 1 thumb-size ginger, julienned and some chili pepper, minced, which I did not use but you can if you like it spicy. Since this is for a salty type, no sugar will be used. Since I’m using a lot of tomatoes vinegar is not necessary.

The first thing I usually do is to cut off some of the salt content of the fresh shrimp paste by thoroughly extracting the salty juice out. You can do this by pressing the paste against a fine strainer using the back of a large spoon until the liquid is drained out and you have this:

The next step is a simple and straight forward sautéing process. In a small pan on medium flame, heat the oil and sauté the garlic, add the ginger followed by the onion and continue cooking until onion is translucent. Add the tomatoes and continue sautéing until mushy and liquid comes out. Add the chili pepper if you are using. You can add a little amount of hot water if it’s drying up.

When the vegetables are almost dissolve, pour the strained “bagoong alamang”, stir and continue cooking for about 5 minutes. Stir once in a while to evenly mix and cook. When the liquid is reduced, it’s done.

Transfer in a bowl and serve in a meal. You can also put it in a jar, keep in the fridge and reserve for future use……hopefully for “kare-kare”. :-)

It is so good with grilled fish, grilled vegetables and a plateful of steaming plain rice. To enjoy it with green mangoes and boiled or grilled eggplant is a splendid idea like during our Family Boodle Feast. I’m starving ………. really starving. c“,)

Litson Kawali (Pan-Roasted or Deep Fried Pork Belly)

“Litson Kawali” or “Lechon Kawali” which literally means pan-roasted pork refers to the tasty Filipino dish of pre-boiled slab of pork belly deep-fried in a frying pan until the skin is crispy but the inside meat remains juicy. The term “litson” or “lechon” generally means roasted pork while “kawali” is a Filipino word that pertains to the bowl-shaped frying pan traditionally used in many Asian cooking, also known as “wok” in China, “wok”, “kuali”, or “kwali” in Malaysia and Singapore, “wajan” in Indonesia, ”chao” in Vietnam, “dare-oh” in Burma and “chukka nabe” or “shina nabe” in Japan. Therefore “litson kawali” is basically pork belly deep fried in a “kawali” or pan which after cooking resembles a “lechon” due to its golden crispy skin.

In the Philippines, “kawali” is also known as “carajay” that’s why the dish is sometimes referred to as, especially during the older times, “Litson de Carajay”.

Pork belly (“liempo”), the cut used in making bacon, is the same part of pork that is ideal for the dish. The good amount of fat in the cut which can be tenderized and fried crisp, while maintaining the inside meat, composed of alternating layers of lean meat and thin fat, still juicy, succulent and tasty is the reason while the cut is considered perfect for the dish. A regular entree in most special gatherings, ”litson kawali” is usually serve with “lechon" sauce or with a vinegar dip with chopped garlic, chili, onion and ground pepper.

There are other regional dishes in the Philippines which are very similar to “litson kawali”. In Camiling town in the province of Tarlac, the residents have their locally famous but just fairly known outside “Chicharon Camiling” or “Litson Camiling”. The dish is so popular in the town and slowly gaining recognition from the other parts of the province that prompted the local government to launch the yearly festival called “Chicharon and Inuruban Festival” in honor (partly) of the dish. This “chicharon” is known to remain crispy even after several days of cooking.

In the Ilocos provinces of Northern Philippines, they have their well-known deep fried pork called “Bagnet”. It is their version of the “litson kawali” that remains in the top list of homegrown delicacy of the region. “Bagnet” preparation is an old handed-down tradition of deep-frying the pork meat until very crispy, primarily to preserve whatever excess meat and extend its life shelf during the times when refrigerators are not yet common. It became quite popular that commercial production was started in the 1980s.

To prepare the “litson kawali”, we need about 2 kilograms pork belly. The skin should be scraped-clean and the whole part washed, drained and then cut into several smaller slabs.

The other ingredients are 1 pc carrot, peeled and cut to small sizes, 8 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed, 1 large onion, peeled and quartered, 2 stalks of celery, 2 pcs bay leaves, 1 tsp whole peppercorn, 2 tbsp salt or to taste and enough water to cover.

Arrange the slabs of pork belly in a large, heavy casserole and cover with enough water. Let the water boil on high heat. Scoop out all the scum that will appear on the surface during the initial boiling stage. When the broth is clear, adjust the heat to low and add all the above ingredients and continue simmering until the pork is just tender. The meat should be tender but the skin and fat should still be firmed enough to allow nice blistering when frying.

Remove the meat from the broth, let it cool, drain and slightly dry up. You can wrap and freeze it if frying is to be done some other time. Filter the broth and discard the spices and vegetables. Spoon out the oil that will float on the surface of the broth. Set aside both broth and collected oil for other use.

To fry, heat enough oil in a large “kawali” or deep frying pan. Deep fry the pork slab until the skin is golden brown and crispy. Mine is a little short of oil so I have to cook both sides properly. Let the meat cool on normal room temperature. Afterwards, fry it again to make the skin real nice and extra crisp. As the frying involves huge amount of oil with a very high temperature, extra care and proper precautions should be observed. Children should be at least 20 meters away. :-) They will smell the drooling aroma when you’re done cooking anyway.

Place the cooked meat in a shallow bowl and let to cool for while. In the meantime, prepare your steamed rice and favorite dipping sauce which are either the simple spiced vinegar or the creamy “lechon” sauce. “Atchara” or the Filipino pickled green papaya also goes well with the dish. Sometimes I go with chopped tomatoes and chili with soy sauce and “calamansi” or lemon juice.

When about to eat, the crispy slab of pork should be chopped to bite sizes. All you need is a sharp heavy knife and a quick chopping action to cut through the crispy skin of the meat. This food maybe fat laden but utterly delicious. Enjoy it! Once in while! c“,)